An Argument for the “Gourmet” Fisherman

by James Simpkins

I’ve been regularly fly-fishing the Farmington River this year and loving it. The river has a huge population of trout for the catching! Fishing, particularly fly-fishing, is a fascinating sport in which one anticipates fish behavior as well as thinking about bugs and their life cycles. It’s gravy on an already easy-to-enjoy day on…er, in…the river.

I think any sport where you spend time in water and don’t get super wet is pretty neat (think SCUBA). As I was fishing the Farmington this past Friday, I realized that, along with personal pleasure, trout fishing is a fantastic addition to the Green lifestyle. Although I’m a big supporter of transforming everyday personal habits into sustainable ones, I really haven’t ever considered hunting my own food a serious part of it. But no more.

Gardening has once again become all the rage—and why not? Lots of people growing at least some of their own produce. But how many folks who have gardens are also on the river with a cooler and packing trout in ice as they catch them? I haven’t been, that’s for sure.

In the world of fishing, generally there are two types of anglers: 1) The “catch and release” fisherman who fishes for the sport of it, ‘releasing’’ each fish that is caught; 2) There are the “meat fishermen”, the guys who keep all legal sized fish for their next meal.

I have always been a “catch and release” guy, thinking that I was doing the fish a favor by letting them grow to see another day. But as a former chef and committed foodie, it bugs me a little every time. Honestly, every time I catch a trout in the river that’s big enough to eat, I think about how nice it would be smoked, broiled with roasted chestnuts, or à l’almondine with butter, pan toasted slivered almonds and flat-leaf parsley. Then I let the thing go. What is wrong with me?

The truth is, though, neither“catch and release” or “meat” fishing really matches up with my intent. I have realized I have other ideas about catching fish than either of these terms seems to include. I’m proposing that our culture begin to recognize another type of fisherman out in the world---the “Gourmet”.  And exactly what is a Gourmet fisherman? To me, the Gourmet angler is one who may keep and eat a fish, or not, but the choice is based primarily on gastronomic consideration. The Gourmet fisherman may ask him/herself questions like, “What fresh herbs to I have available?” or “What dish do I have in mind for this particular trout”? In fact, he/she may even go to the river hoping for a specific type of trout to suit their palate.

For example, wild brook trout (really in the char family) are widely considered to be the finest tasting trout, with the wily and far more available rainbow trout running a close second. Also fine eating, the brown trout is considered a delicacy all over Europe! Perhaps the greatest epicurean facet of our Farmington River is that you can catch each of these three varieties. I’ve included my own (sometimes blurry) pictures of each kind that I’ve personally caught this year.

Sadly, I can’t tell you how any of them tasted. But that chapter is coming to a close with the “Gourmet” variety of fisherman now distinguished. Plus, what a responsible and sustainable resource Farmington River trout are!

In the Farmington, trout, along with Atlantic salmon fry, are stocked preseason to gear up for opening day, or what was April 18th of this year. Here’s what the fine folks at the Department of Environmental Protection grew for us this year:

66,700 brook trout       (10-11 inch)
198,600 brown trout    (10-11 inch)
7,000 brown trout        (12 inch)
6,500 tiger trout           (10-12 inch brook/brown hybrid)
90,000 rainbow trout   (10-12 inch)
16,000 rainbow trout   (12-14 inch)
1,800 brood stock       (3-10 pound trout)

In addition to the fish mentioned above, there are all the uneaten trout from last year that continue to spread up and down the river. In other words, there are plenty of fish for both a source of sport and one of food and nutrition, and with the Gourmet angler the addition of dietary and lifestyle awareness added in to one or both. What I see above all in Gourmet fishing is fishing to become more wide-spread as a part of a Green lifestyle and for it to make a much-needed cultural upgrade in our consideration. I have more than a few acquaintances who would consider fishing beneath them; too dirty or hands-on for them. I find this hilarious as some of these same folks are ones growing tomatoes and lettuces in the backyard. For whatever reason, the idea of fishing for one’s own dinner has not quite risen up the cultural respect ladder to that of the humble vegetable (yes, I know…tomatoes are fruits).

Meanwhile, people still appear to be happily paying the $12 to $20 or more per pound at big grocery stores, not to mention an average of around $20 a plate for a 6-ounce portion in restaurants—neither one of which are winning awards for Green business of the year.

Lest my intentions for our collective welfare be misinterpreted, do not look at this as a commericial enterprise, but rather another way in which an individual may take back choice in their diet and consumption. As backyard gardens are perhaps the foundation of sustainable agriculture, local waterways and the food resources available in them must be treated as purely public, not commercial, enterprises.

Overfishing, as has been pointed out on this website, only disrupts what nature can provide us. Corporations, as well as private interests, should not be permitted to usurp the bounty of our local abundance for financial gain. However, if we continue to use the Farmington and other waterways throughout Connecticut as offering us a sustainable and responsible supplement to commercially farmed fish, as individuals we would be able to take advantage of another backyard resource to Green living in each of our neighborhoods. Plus, for those of you that haven’t tried fishing for your dinner yet, there is virtually zero chance at overfishing…trout are a lot harder to fool than some of their distant relatives.

So grab a rod and reel and hit the water. For the price of a couple portions at a restaurant, not only can you get hooked on a new sport, you may just end up with a lovely trout dinner from some time at your local watering hole.

And since I’m the one pushing the idea, I promise to share my first home-cooked trout dinner in a future posting. Enjoy---and hopefully, bon appétit!

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